Inns and Beer houses in Penkhull

The origins of the old Terrace Inn were I suspect at the same time included in the old row of five cottages terraced properties, just below what was to become known as Commercial Row, the old narrow short street leading to The Views. The first documents relating to the properties are dated the 29^th of July 1858, with the transfer of the cottages to Hester Till from her late husband John. This suggests that it was John that in all probability had inherited them from his parents who may have been there for several decades before 1858. By 1870, Hester had died, and the property was left to her daughter, Mrs Priscilla Scholes of Derby, and her son William Scholes. The property was promptly sold to Mary Ann Cliff on the 29th of December 1870 for the sun of £451. Mary Cliff, the licensee, was recorded as a widow but later married Mr Thomas Bratt.

For many years the old Terrace Inn was probably the most popular with the locals. Many stories still circulate of the old characters that frequented the pub. I recall my late friend Ernest Tew talking to me some thirty years ago of his memories of the 1930s and 40s when the back-room snug was often referred to as ‘The Third Programme’. The highlight of the pub was the little men’s smoke room where the conversation was brilliant, debating most things of the day from politics to religion. Sometimes they became very heated, especially after a few pints. Mugs were frequently picked up in anger but never actually thrown. It was here in this little room that everyone was an equal no matter what his position was. All were on Christian name terms and included many high-ranking officials from the council. It was truly a remarkable meeting place.

This old established Inn has proved the most difficult to research its early history.  I was always of the belief that the original Inn would date from the medieval period on the basis that Penkhull was situated on the main highway from the south to the north of Stoke-on-Trent before the current London Road, Stoke was laid. Here in Penkhull,  an Inn was listed in the 15th century under the sign of Lord Wagstaff. The court rolls list a Thomas Bagnall, victualler of Penkhull in 1587. A Thomas Tittensor was licensed to sell spirits in 1606; James Bourne was named a victualler of Penkhull in 1775. Sadly, none of these identify the Inn by name.

In 1861, Charles Simpson, aged 34, and his wife Mary, aged 36, both from Hanley were running the Inn and by 1891 George Salt, aged 45, and Sarah his wife, aged 42, were in charge. They had two children, Florence, aged 15, and Eleanor, age 7. Apart from Charles’ mother and his sister-in-law living there, they had two male servants John Harris, aged 29, and Alfred Thomas, aged 23.

Throughout the decades, the Marquis had rather a fast number of landlords.

The property remained in the hands of Mary Ann Lees, until her death at Southport. She was buried at Hanford on the 19^th of November 1894. By the terms of her Will dated, the 16th of May 1873, The Marquis of Granby was left in trust to her daughter Annie Crewe Lees and Mr William Challinor of Leek, earthenware manufacturer, until it should be deemed advisable to convert it into cash but should not be sold during the lives of her three daughters unless a major part of them should consent to such a sale. After her death it remained in the hands of the trustees.

On the 17th of May 1886, the trustees entered into an agreement to lease out the premises to Mr Henry Elshaw for a period of ten years at an annual rent of £82.  It was recorded that the property had been in the occupation of Mr George Furnival for some time. The same document refers for the first time to the addition of a bowling green adjacent to the pub. On the same date Mr Elshaw assigned the lease by way of mortgage for security of £306 from Mr John Robinson.

The name The Marquis of Granby is interesting so many pubs of that name. John Manners, the eldest son of the 3rd Duke of Rutland, and known by his father’s subsidiary title of the Marquis of Granby, was a highly distinguished soldier and later a politician. He was known by his generosity as when his soldiers retired, John Manners helped many of his soldiers financially to set up public houses who all subsequently called new Inns or re-named existing Inns – The Marquis of Granby, out of respect and admiration of the former Major General. When he died in 1771 the Marquis left £60,000 of debts with assets of around £23,000 which could imply that he was most generous during his lifetime.

Here in Penkhull,  an Inn was listed in the 15th century under the sign of Lord Wagstaff. The court rolls list a Thomas Bagnall, victualler of Penkhull in 1587. A Thomas Tittensor was licensed to sell spirits in 1606; James Bourne was named a victualler of Penkhull in 1775. Sadly, none of these identify the Inn by name.

The property remained in the hands of Mary Ann Lees, until her death at Southport. She was buried at Hanford on the 19^th of November 1894. By the terms of her Will dated, the 16th of May 1873, The Marquis of Granby was left in trust to her daughter Annie Crewe Lees and Mr William Challinor of Leek, earthenware manufacturer, until it should be deemed advisable to convert it into cash but should not be sold during the lives of her three daughters unless a major part of them should consent to such a sale. After her death it remained in the hands of the trustees.

On the 17th of May 1886, the trustees entered into an agreement to lease out the premises to Mr Henry Elshaw for a period of ten years at an annual rent of £82.  It was recorded that the property had been in the occupation of Mr George Furnival for some time. The same document refers for the first time to the addition of a bowling green adjacent to the pub. On the same date Mr Elshaw assigned the lease by way of mortgage for security of £306 from Mr John Robinson.

The present Greyhound Inn, formerly known as Penkhull Hall then previously by the name of Greenhead House, (simply – head of the green) stands opposite to what is now the west door of the parish church, but before the church was built here was a large open space of common manorial waste where the village pinfold was situated. In the first place the Greyhound was an old building, originally a farmhouse, would be constructed of timber, wattle and daub with one large room – the large parlour, which was used for the Customary Court Baron and Court Leet. This section of the building now forms the public bar section of the Inn. The building still retains its original form, although largely reconstructed in 1936.

Beneath the floor was The Penkhull Lock-up often used for the confinement of drunks who were usually released the next day, or to hold people being brought before the local magistrate the following morning. A typical village lock-up is a small structure with a single door and a narrow-slit window or opening. Lock-ups were not a gaol; they were only a temporary place to secure prisoners.

A precise history is told with the aid of court rolls, Hearth Tax Record, surveys of the manor and parish records, all meticulously recorded to provide an accurate unique account of its history from the 14th century.  The essay is 21 pages x A4 with many photographs which will no doubt give great pleasure to the reader, and even more help with late night conversations in the pub debating its history.

The route from ancient times to the town of Stoke and the Potteries was via Hanford along what is the A34 to a point where the present Rookery Lane turns off. From there the road continued up Brisley Hill, now called Trent Valley Road, through the village of Penkhull and down Honeywall – an arduous road especially for packhorses taking the products of Stokes’ potworks to the south.

In the late 1780s it was decided to create a turnpike road with toll gates from what is now the Black Lion at Trent Vale to Campbell Place in Stoke and was opened in 1791 creating new opportunities for traders. In all probability to exploit this new development probably the owner of Black Lion Farm which stood on the opposite side of the A34 to Rookery Lane built the Inn, the Black Lion on a prestigious corner of the important London to Carlisle Road, the A34, and the new Turnpike Road, London Road and subsequently erected the Black Lion c1792/3.

As soon as the Inn was established it was a location that identified other nearby properties for adverts for land and houses whereby all included the Black Lion on the Turnpike Road. As the name Trent Vale had not become established, the Black Lion was frequently advertised as near to Newcastle or Hanford or near the town of Stoke and soon became the only inn and social venue of the district.